TOWN COUNCIL SHIRKS THE BIG CHALLENGES. Report by ERWIN CHLANDA.
Illegal camping, littering and public drinking are here to stay because
the town council is unwilling to provide the resources to stop them.
The council's camping by-law is continuously flouted because no rangers
are working when it is in force, between 9pm and 6am.
Far from making laws stick, early morning patrols, which had a "humbug
effect" on illegal campers, have also been discontinued.
There are some prosecutions for littering but mostly the council find
it difficult to get adequate evidence, despite mountains of rubbish in
public places,.
Littering comes under the NT Litter Act but council rangers are
authorised officers under that Act.
Although illegal public drinking is rampant, the council has not taken
up the option of having its rangers appointed as liquor inspectors so
that they can join police in the fight against this profound irritant
in the Alice Springs.
The council is afraid their rangers might get hurt.
Liquor Commission chairman Peter Allen says liquor inspectors have the
power to confiscate liquor drunk illegally in a public place.
Aldermen Jenny Mostran and Michael Jones say they don't believe that
other tourist towns would allow in their streets the kind of
anti-social behavior being tolerated here, but they claim council does
not have the legislative powers to enforce proper behavior on the
streets (Alice News, Feb 4).
The fact is that they have some significant powers, but aren't using
them, and instead are passing the buck to the Territory government and
Tangentyere Council.
This has not stopped Ald Jones, pre-selected by the CLP for the
Assembly seat of Braitling, from issuing robust rhetoric: "We need
people [on council] who are prepared to be leaders in Alice Springs,
because there are significant issues that need to be addressed and
dealt with in the coming years."
Nearing the end of his four year term, not once has Ald Jones proposed
decisive council action on issues of anti-social behavior.
And there are still no moves to set up authorized camping areas for the
hundreds of people visiting, at any given time, from bush communities
within a 1000 km radius.
The council relies on Tangentyere to round up and transport people back
to their communities, under the "back to country" program.
However, anecdotal evidence suggest that program is winding down or is
defunct because there no decrease in illegal camping.
Tangentyere has not responded to a request for comment, and the town
council says it does not know how many people are being taken back to
their communities each week.
Ranger Unit manager Clem Wheatley says illegal camping takes place not
only in the river beds but also on top of the hills around town.
"We do regulate it, we chip away at it, given the resources and the
other duties we have," says Mr Wheatley.
"We could have numerous teams of people going around doing this, but
obviously there would be a cost attached to that.
"Our funds chiefly come from rates and we have to be using ratepayers'
funds wisely.
"Even if we did have great numbers of teams going around regulating
camping activities, you would still get people coming in and camping.
"You might move a group one day, and a totally separate group from
another community would come in that night behind them in the same
spot.
"So you're chasing your tail in that way."
Mr Wheatley says he doesn't know how much it would cost to stamp out
illegal camping, and in any case, there is no chance to accomplish
that.
"This is unrealistic," he says. "That would never happen.
"It is physically impossible.
"It's not just a matter of saying, you can't camp here, move on.
"We have to have the support of being able to get these people
physically removed.
"And that's where the back to country programs come in.
"We do report groups of campers to Tangentyere which responds by
relocating them whenever possible.
"If resources to conduct adequate patrols were provided to an
Aboriginal group, such as Tangentyere, because, let's face it, we're
dealing chiefly with Aboriginal people, then you would find the numbers
would be reduced."
PATROLSMr Wheatly says wardens "used to conduct patrols for Tangentyere
every morning of the week and they'd start at four or five o'clock in
the morning, and go right through the whole river and other areas".
One of them was local identity Eddie Taylor, now a town council ranger.
"Before that scheme was started there were between 400 and 600 people
permanently in the river."
The morning patrols reduced numbers dramatically.
"It's the humbug effect, I guess," says Mr Wheatley.
"Having adequate resources to conduct early morning patrols on a
regular basis is most definitely the answer."
The movements of itinerants are entirely unpredictable as well as
unrestrained.
"We might find hardly anyone in the river," says Mr Wheatley.
"The next day we could come along and there are groups everywhere.
"Where the hell did they all come from?"
Mr Mooney says: "Our by-laws prohibit camping in a public place from
9pm to 6am.
"To have council resources deployed seven nights a week would be an
enormous impost on the ratepayer."
How much?
"At this stage I couldn't tell you, but we have to be mindful of all
our competing demands, and of the occupational health, safety and
welfare issues."
That's a roundabout way of saying that Mr Mooney doesn't want to put
council enforcement officers into harm's way.
Mr Wheatley says the council doesn't want its staff involved in the
control of public drinking: "You are getting into a situation where you
are seizing someone's property and forcing them to tip it out.
"Our role is not one of forced enforcement, the physical side of
enforcement.
"The most practical way of dealing with drinking is obviously to grab
it off them and tip it out.
"The reality is, if we were to start doing that, unless we had a police
officer with us, I think you would find that my staff would be getting
injured on a regular basis.
"And I am not prepared to get into that side.
"I've got to consider the occupational health and safety side of it.
"It's the job of the police and they give us excellent support."
Mr Wheatley says it's clear that most of the litter is from illegal
consumption of alcohol, but fighting public boozing in itself seems a
futile task.
"Police go along, they tip one lot out, that group goes and another
group comes in.
"I've seen groups with alcohol first thing in the morning.
"They must bury it somewhere.
"I think the answer to all these problems is more resources."
Mr Wheatley says litter prosecutions are equally difficult: "We
actually have to see someone drop the litter, then we actually have to
see them leave it there, unless we can find some other evidence linking
the person to the litter."
He says council officers give campers plastic bags and ask them to pick
up the litter. "Sometimes they are pretty good. They bag it up and we
take it away.
"But if they tell us to get stuffed, so to speak, we sort of tuck our
tail between our legs, because legally they haven't committed an
offence.
"Unless we've actually seen them drop it there it's not an offence.
"And if we see them put it there, how do we know they're not going to
pick it up before they leave?"
Mr Mooney says the Memorandum of Understanding between the town council
and Tangentyere was reviewed last year.
Amazingly, the back to country program is now well down on the list of
priorities, which is topped by:-
¥ a mobility study of population movements (now "progressing
through discussions with the NT Government");
¥ a joint ranger program especially in the area of animal
management ("discussions with Minister Ah Kit are under way");
¥ and improving the structure, administration and documentation of
the partnership's workings.
Why is there not a place where bush visitors can stay in an orderly
fashion?
Says Mr Wheatley: "It would be much easier for us if we had somewhere
for them to go. "Someone would need to service them while they are
there, take the garbage away, make sure no-one is under threat, and
regulate the time they spend there.
"You don't want to create another town camp.
"Those were set aside for people who came from out bush and became
permanent residents.
"I do see a need for somewhere for people to go when they come into
town.
"The reality is, people are going to come into town, we can't put up a
fence.
"And if they haven't got anywhere to go they are going to camp in the
hills and the rivers and other public areas."
CENTRE'S SHAPES AND COLOURS GIVE CBD A BIG LIFT. Report by KIERAN
FINNANE.
With the new auditorium of the Alice Springs Cinemas, architect Sue
Dugdale has signed off with flair on her second commercial building in
the CBD.
The first was the revamping of the Yeperenye Shopping Centre.
The two make some headway in having an impact on the remarkably banal
built environment of the town, a goal Dugdale has set herself.
At Yeperenye Dugdale, together with Sydney-based retail architects B
& N Group, had only the faade to work with, while the cinema
involved construction with some complicated constraints.
The end results have in common a confident use of shape, pattern and
colour, that stands out with a pleasing freshness yet doesn't stick out
like a sore thumb.
Taking her cues from the natural environment, Dugdale Ð formerly
with Tangentyere Design, but practising on her own since August 2000
Ð has understood that the townscape can afford, indeed needs, a
little drama.
There's a reference to the ranges in both projects, an interpretation
in urban forms and materials of their big shapes, colours and
movement.With strong accents at a height Ð Yeperenye's undulating
lines at roof level and the tall vertical columns referencing the Gap;
the cinema's playful roof Ð both get you lifting your gaze, away
from the everyday business of the street to actually engage with the
building.
Then you realise that that doesn't happen very often in Alice Springs.
Your engagement mostly starts when your body registers the
air-conditioning.
The owners of Yeperenye recognised that architectural elements can do
more than that.
They asked Dugdale to give that building a stronger identity on the
street, one that could pull in people from as far as Todd Mall.
Inside though the task was different: it was to create a lighter feel,
providing a pleasing but non-competitive backdrop for the tenancies;
and to create a long vista pulling people through the centre, instead
of bottlenecking in the middle.
The cinema brief was more functional: adding a fourth auditorium to the
existing complex, within the limited land available.
Dugdale says there was really no other solution to the shape of the
building, given its technical exigencies: the fire escape requirements,
the viewing lines, the connection of the projection room to the
existing ones so that one projectionist can operate all four cinemas,
and, fitting in a certain number of larger, more comfortable seats.
Beyond this, the owner gave her significant freedom to make her own
aesthetic judgements.
She says she wanted to give the building a strong identity that could
be quite exotic Ð "as movies are often an exotic experience" Ð
and yet also have an Alice Springs "feel".
The scale of the wall facing Leichardt Terrace also had to be
addressed.
This was accomplished in a few different ways: breaking up the faade
both vertically, with sections of wall at different angles, and
horizontally, with the expressively painted purple line suggesting the
skyline along the ranges.
The light fittings create accents at height, as does the planter box,
also quite high, avoiding the problem of attracting litter as well as
referencing the plants that grow from the walls of gorges like Ormiston
and Ellery.
On Dugdale's "urban agenda" was also the idea of responding to the
K-Mart building, which marks the diagonally opposite corner of the CBD.
Dugdale feels her wall is "a kind of twin" to K-Mart's sandstone wall
facing Railway Terrace, which references Mount Gillen. In contrast to
the predominant allusions to the natural environment, the chequerboard
roof of the cinema is intended as a "foreign object", as different from
the rest as a spaceship sitting in a rocky landscape, the idea being
that when you enter the cinema it is in fact to remove yourself from
your environment, to escape.
Apart from the patterning, the roof also follows the skewed shape of
the building and was a challenge to construct. Dugdale says Probuild
made a huge effort to get it right.
Her latest project is accommodation for hospital staff, under
construction next to the Old Gaol.
The land is part of the heritage precinct and Dugdale's design had to
comply with the exacting requirements of the heritage management plan.
As well, the Territory Government wanted the units to be
environmentally sound.
Dugdale's design, using passive design techniques including
orientation, materials and roof forms, achieved a five star energy
rating.
She has also aimed to respond to the aesthetic of the surrounding
heritage buildings, particularly the Hartley Street houses, without
imitating them.
It's an important distinction for this town that has destroyed much of
its built heritage.
Dugdale, who sits on the Territory's Heritage Advisory Committee, wants
sites and buildings of significance to be given their due care.
But the challenge for the town is also to create strong contemporary
buildings, she says, "because they will form our heritage for the
future".
OLD GHAN NEEDS NEW HEAD OF STEAM. Report by KIERAN FINNANE.
As hype around the new Ghan reached a climax, the Old Ghan was lying
dormant.
Instead of the historic train and narrow gauge line reaping the rewards
of this new surge of train buffery, the Ghan Preservation Society has
all but relinquished hope of getting the steam train running again and
is contenting itself with developing its static display at Stewart
Station.
However, even that is not open at the moment.
The society consists of a small band of volunteers and is run as a
community-based committee headed up by president Warren Serone.
Until mid last year a small private company was running the steam train
and the museum as a tourist attraction but apparently found it
unviable.
Mr Serone says the society is now looking for a new operator to run the
attraction as a static display, which could "make a living" for "one
and half" people.
He is doubtful that a suitable candidate will come forward who could
get the train running: that is, a person with hands-on rail knowledge
as well as the managerial skills to make it a going concern and be in
compliance with the NT Rail Safety Act.
There is also the considerable stumbling block of the estimated $1m to
$1.5m needed to repair the track to meet the standards set by the Act,
and to overhaul the rolling stock.
With the train running, Mr Serone says the operation could offer
employment for at least six people.
He estimates current visitation at 5000 to 7000 a year, which he
suggests is "not too bad" for a regional museum.
He sees Alice's remoteness and small population as the major obstacles
to growth.
However, these same factors haven't held back what seem to be
attractions of a similar order.
The Battery Hill Mining Centre in Tennant Creek, even after the
downturn in tourism that followed September 11 and SARS, got just under
17,000 visitors last financial year, most coming from the self-drive
market.
The centre employs 10 people, five of them full-time, and earns 75 per
cent of its own income. The rest comes from direct government grants or
sponsorship.
It offers visitors a safe experience of being in an underground mine
and has added a display of an extensive collection of minerals.
Manager Geoff Kennedy says the attraction grew out of a community
desire to preserve its mining heritage and to develop tourism
attractions, supported by the local and Territory governments, Normandy
Mining and the local tourism association.
Closer to home, indeed in immediate proximity, The Road Transport Hall
of Fame pulls 20,000 to 30,000 visitors a year.
It is run entirely by volunteers, who keep it open seven days a week,
9am-5pm, and after hours on request.
Its very considerable private sponsorship is directed into its display
and associated activities.
Long-time president (and at present also caretaker) is Liz Martin.
She says her committee has been determined to be self-reliant, rather
than seek "hand-outs" from government and they have been singularly
successful.
They've recently received $80,000 from Volvo for the renovation of a
truck; $200,000 from Kenworth for their annual reunion (attracting
visitors from around the country) and a new building; and have just
signed off on deals from Shell Australia and Cummins Diesel Engines for
$250,000 and $100,000 respectively.
Ms Martin says she sees a lot of potential for her organization and the
Ghan Preservation Society to work together, just as historically "road
and rail have always gone together".
Mr Serone acknowledges his neighbour's success, but says road transport
has "greater volumes of people" involved in it as well as a huge
private sector industry.
The obvious sponsor for the Old Ghan would be the new train's owners,
Great Southern Rail.
However this relationship got off to a poor start when GSR threatened
to take the Ghan Preservation Society to court over the use of the name
"Ghan".
This matter has since been resolved and the society now has a licence
allowing it to use the name "Old Ghan".
A more positive note was struck recently when GSR presented the society
with a plaque to mark the occasion of the first passenger train journey
to Darwin.
Central Australian Tourism Industry Association general manager Craig
Catchlove says a tourism attraction "revolving around" the Old Ghan is
"imperative".
He sees the hurdles as considerable, not least the potential conflict
between the objectives of the preservation society and objectives of a
viable commercial operation that could compromise authenticity.
"Anyone involved in tourism in Central Australia over the last 20 years
has tripped over this issue," says Mr Catchlove.
"The old train is an intrinsic part of our heritage and it needs to be
developed so that locals as well as visitors can enjoy it.
"We need an outcome on this one."
CRANKING UP THE KNOWLEDGE TRADE. Report by ERWIN CHLANDA.
Desert Knowledge last week got a sharp boost, as a short term money
spinner for Alice Springs, and as a long term initiative aiming to make
the town a major player in the arid regions which are home to one sixth
of the globe's population.
Minister for Central Australia Peter Toyne turned the first sod Ð
with a backhoe Ð for the Desert Knowledge precinct south of The
Gap.
Over three years the $27.8m construction project will create 245 jobs,
an "enormous boost" to the Central Australia's economy at a time when
the Darwin railway is causing massive losses of jobs in the local
trucking industry, says Dr Toyne.
The budget includes $8m from the Commonwealth Government.
Meanwhile Desert Knowledge Australia (DKA) executive officer Ken
Johnson says a string of projects have already come into the
organisation's orbit.
DKA is getting started as a clearing house for anything that helps
people living in the desert, but down the track may develop a strong
economic base as a global broker of skills, services and ideas.
The precinct will also house the Alice campus of the Batchelor
Institute and the Centre for Appropriate Technology.
The third teaching organisation initially involved in the project, the
Institute for Aboriginal Development, pulled out and is building a $5m
campus on South Terrace.
The precinct's aspirations are reflected in the names of its segments:
you will be able to get to the International Desert Innovation Centre,
the Welcome Strangers Courtyard and the Graduate Desert Knowledge
University via the Avenue of Knowledge having passed through one of the
two Precinct Entry Portals that will, drawings suggest, look like the
welcome sign near the Adelaide turn-off, but be on both sides of the
Stuart Highway.
The sketches of the layout are dominated by straight lines linking
existing facilities (including the Arid Zone buildings opposite Radio
8-HA and Yirara College), and the planned ones nearby.
On some drawings these lines continue to locations far out bush,
apparently signifying some kind of alignment that is obvious only from
outer space.
More tangible are the projects DKA is already associated with, although
some of them have been around for a while.
Dr Johnson says these include:-
¥ Remote sensing developed by CSIRO officers in Alice Springs: It
draws on a 20 year archive of satellite pictures taken fortnightly.
The density of vegetation, plotted against rainfall at the time, allows
deductions about land degradation or recovery. The system is used by
Australian government agencies and NGOs, as well as overseas.
¥ The Royal Flying Doctor Service has developed "a lot of expertise
in movement of people over many years," says Dr Johnson. It has a
contract with Saudi Arabia to set up a similar operation there,
including training of staff.
¥ A group headed by Alice identity David Frederiksen developing a
power station for Bridsville driven by geo-thermal energy, heat from
beneath the ground, "an entirely renewable energy source for a whole
town, 24 hours a day. Even solar doesn't do that," says Dr Johnson.
¥ Experiments by NT government engineers with the salt
stabilisation of road base: in dry times dirt roads break up but this
can be retarded by mixing salt, which draws moisture from the
atmosphere, into the road base. Tests are under way between Alice and
Tilmouth Well, on the Yuendumu Road.
Dr Johnson says Desert Knowledge is stimulating the exchange of
knowledge between desert regions.
For example, other arid zone towns could learn from an innovative
program in Moree (NSW) that deals with youth unemployment.
Three scientists from the Desert Research Institute in Nevada, which
has 450 members and an annual budget of $30m for programs all over the
world, visited Alice last November.
They were "most interested" in Tangentyere's processes involving
indigenous and non-indigenous people, which the visitors planned to
apply to their work in East Africa.
They also checked out our ground water sensing techniques and water
management, and how a partnership in fighting bushfires could be
formed.
"That's exactly what we're in the process of doing now, forming a
memorandum of understanding that will allow for that sort of
partnership, and participation in international programs and
consultancies in various parts of the world," says Dr Johnson.
"The role of Desert Knowledge Australia is not in Ômanufacturing'
but in facilitation.
"In the longer term I would imagine it would have a potential revenue
flow from brokerage of desert knowledge.
"We'll have the network to bring the parties together to provide a
service.
"We'll be able to pull together fairly significant expertise from
around Australia, and potentially, internationally."
Dr Johnson says the venture could be more than consultancy: "We've got
groups in renewable energy [that is, manufacturers] who want to
establish in the precinct of Desert Knowledge."
The organisation could "provide the test bed and the management for the
reliability if these kinds of systems.
"There's one being developed in Canberra but it's not been tested in
the environment in which it would normally be applied."
COME AND TALK TO US, SAY ALDERMEN. Profile by COURTNEY WHITMAN.
Beautification of the town, security and more car parking space are top
of the agenda for Alderman Samih Habib when he seeks re-election to
council in May.
Ald Raelene Beale, who is caring for her elderly father, will not seek
re-election this time round but hopes to return to local government in
the future.
She rates council's developing relationships with Tangentyere Council
and Lhere Artepe (the native title holders' body corporate) as top
"macro" achievements of the current council.
At the "micro" level, she says there is much more shade in parks and a
verge beautification program underway.
On car parking Ald Habib says "we've got to start to prepare for the
next 40, 50 years, I mean, what will happen to the town then if we get
slack on parking?"He hopes private investment might expand private car
parking in Alice, maybe around the Hartley Street area, or "if we can,
take from the government to establish a car park".
There could also be "a bigger car park alongside the river", says Ald
Habib.
A sharp businessman, Ald Habib is also passionate about the
beautification of Alice.
He is pleased that council has "nearly finished" the first stage of
footpath building around the town.
He has also been pushing for beautification of the southern entrance to
Todd Mall.
Walking tracks are a priority. Ald Habib says work has started on the
first stage of this project, from the Casino Bridge to Tuncks Road. The
second, from Tuncks Road to Wills Terrace is "in the pipeline".
He says he is now pushing for Stage Three from Wills Terrace to the
Telegraph Station to get underway, with financial assistance from the
Territory Government.
Ald Habib says something must be done about the security of the Todd
Mall: "It is time for us, as a community, to look around for something
that works."He suggests police kiosks along the mall, or a single
station, to combat anti-social behaviour.
However, according to Ald Habib, the police "don't support the idea at
all", they don't see it as "a necessity".
Ald Habib believes that it would be a "great help" for security issues,
that "people would see a couple of cops, and that's it".
The police would also be able to "assist tourists".
"Mostly, tourists need information about the town, you know?" says Ald
Habib. "There couldn't be anybody better than a policeman to ask, now,
could there?"
(Acting Commander Trevor Bell says the police have considered the
proposal but do not think it is the best use of their resources,
especially as the police station is only 100 metres from the mall.)The
council has been cutting down on consultancies, which means, says Ald
Habib, that the public must become more involved.
He would like to see more community meetings, attended by more people.
He says there needs to be more pressure from the community for the
things that they are really affected by.
He is also hoping to open debate about abolishing pay toilets in the
CBD. He believes they should be free of charge, because the people who
don't have the money go out to the trees on the street.
On the controversial and frustrating issue of public toilets in the CBD
Ald Beale says the community needs to define what a public facility is.
"Should it be manned, should it be accessible, and accessible to whom?
"Should they be pay toilets? Should they have showers?
"What's your idea of a public toilet?" asks Ald Beale.
She says public toilets involve health and safety issues, tax issues,
and tourism issues. She has been lobbying for public debate on the
toilets for some time, and has finally succeeded in putting the issue
on the agenda of the next CATIA executive meeting.
Ald Beale will "absolutely" run for council again, "just not this
election".
She says the four years of her first term have involved "very
interesting community work".
Council has "worked really hard to develop partnerships" with
Tangentyere Council and Lhere Artepe, and with the community at large.
When asked why the Lhere Artepe memorandum of understanding was still
unsigned, Ald Beale says cultural obligations of the native title
holders have delayed the signing.
She says council's decision to fly the Harold Thomas-designed
Aboriginal flag has definitely made Aboriginal people feel "more
welcome" in town and has brought the Alice community together through
debate.
Likewise debate around the "Alice is Wonderland Gay and Lesbian
Festival", which she supported, has raised the level of community
awareness son issues that were hardly talked about before.
She has enjoyed working on the Swimming Pool committee. She suggests
funding could be attracted by making the pool a Desert Knowledge
project, using solar energy for heating during winter.
It could become a "showcase" for a "triple bottom line" approach,
addressing social, financial, and environmental issues.
Ald Beale also enjoyed working with council's Araluen community access
grants.
They give very real opportunities for artists to perform in a
"professional setting", promote "developing talents", and support local
schools to stage their end of year programs in the auditorium.
She says council has made progress on the civic centre plans (not yet
available), shade in the parks, a verge and beautification policy
linked to parks and recreation, working with internal council
employees, and supporting the CEO and directors of departments.
Council has also been brought into a "new era", by changing its logo
design and colours.
All these things show that council is concerned with community
awareness and participation, says Ald Beale, and they also promote an
"understanding that the council, as an elected body, represents the
community".
When asked what projects she would have liked to see come to fruition
yet was unable to, Ald Beale replied, "Council is a numbers game. If
you don't have the numbers, you don't have your project".
She found her term on council "very challenging" with different views,
different values, and different belief systems all "coming together".
She stood alone against council's reaffirmation of support for the
Joint Defence policy.
"The creation of the Joint Defence Facility had nothing to do with
council and I felt the policy didn't give a balanced view," she says.
She was also against the changed in the middle of the term of the way
aldermen are remunerated. Formerly they received an allowance; now part
of their remuneration is tied to their attendance of meetings.
Her advice to prospective candidates:
"Learn meeting procedures, learn processes, and understand the role of
an alderman.
"If you haven't already, get some governance training. Understand what
governance is. "Be organized in time management, set aside enough time.
"Come with an open mind, and be prepared to be flexible, but most
importantly be yourself, remain true to yourself."
CONISTON: CAN WE MAKE A JUDGMENT? Part Eighteen and last of a Feature
by DICK KIMBER.
'Real True History': Coniston MassacreConstable Murray, murderer or
hero?
Before considering whether the "Coniston killings" constituted a
massacre and whether Constable Murray can be seen as a murderer or a
hero, I want to briefly examine the research subsequent to 1940.
I am only aware of three researchers after this date who interviewed
George Murray, two of whom published their material and one of whom
left his information in thesis form.
Ernestine Hill, and Sidney Downer in his 1963 book, "Patrol
Indefinite", do not challenge the figure of 31.
However, M.C. Hartwig's 1960 thesis, "The Coniston Killings", is by far
the most rigorous examination of the situation. Hartwig carefully chose
his words. His title, it will be noted, is not "The Coniston Massacre".
He appears to have had a degree of cooperation from George Murray, but
also to have met some barriers. His estimate is therefore based on
Annie Lock's and Pastor Albrecht's figures, and he considers it "more
correct" to accept 70-105 as the number shot.
Douglas Lockwood referred to the 31 admitted shot in his 1960 book
"Fair Dinkum" and his 1964 book "Up The Track", but in his earlier book
of 1959, "Crocodiles and other people", had stated, "they were
decimated and scattered, migrating east and north". This implies that
he believed that a much greater number than 31 were killed, but he
makes no estimate. (He does make the further point, though, that some
of those who were forced to flee to neighbouring country were sometimes
killed in inter-group conflicts there. While this is a realistic
supposition, he provides no evidence for it).
In 1992 Kurt Johannsen was clear, from what he had heard, that the
massacres constituted "an act of revenge", and stated that he
understood that "one can still go into certain areas and find hundreds
of bones scattered around in the scrub." His perception was accepted by
Julie Marcus in her 2001 study of "The Indominitable Miss Pink", but
neither author gives an estimate of the total number killed.
Thus, as far as I know, no other researchers have been able to be more
accurate than Mervyn Hartwig, and unless an extraordinarily detailed
diary by Constable Murray comes to light (highly improbable), the
estimates will always be very "rubbery", and open to debate.
Without going more exhaustively into the reasons why, I believe that
there is too much oral history and circumstantial evidence that states
or suggests otherwise to accept 31 as the number of people who were
shot.
The second patrol remains a mystery as to details, but is likely to
have resulted in shootings as well as the arrest of two men, given the
evidence for the first and third patrols. My own conclusion is higher
than the Central Land Council's conservative estimate, and I believe
that over 70 were shot, and that possibly over 100 were, for Pastor
Albrecht (see last week's article) was not given to extravagances.
However, as a conservative estimate, I believe that 70-80 people,
mostly men but including some women and children, were shot or murdered
after being captured or injured.
I also believe that, though Paddy Tucker and Walter Smith probably
over-estimated numbers, it is highly likely that a further 100 or more
people, mostly men, were shot in the station country under
consideration, and in a wider general area from Central Mount Wedge in
a western arc through Mount Farewell to Tanami. I believe that police
patrols were not normally involved in these shootings.
Some of the people shot were killed in the period 1911-1927, probably
mostly in the 1920s, and others in the period 1929-c.1935. Walter
Smith's estimate of having seen 200 skulls and other skeletal remains
no doubt included many who were shot during the police patrols, and
numerous others who were shot both shortly before and shortly after the
patrols.
And although Walter did not think so, it is also possible that some of
the skeletons that had become uncovered were of people who had died of
natural causes, or inter-group fighting independent of any pastoral
presence.
Further to this, another 100-200 probably migrated in a permanent way
to Wave Hill, Gordon Downs, Birrindudu, the Hermannsburg- Haasts Bluff
country, all along the Overland Telegraph Line route from Tennant Creek
to Alice Springs, and in the 1930s to the gold, wolfram and other mines
of the Tanami, Granites, Mount Doreen station, and the Anningie
country.
Many of these were women widowed as a result of the shootings, with
small children to care for, but some also migrated because of the
severe drought conditions. The widows were almost certainly all taken
in by, and married into, the safer Warlpiri, Gurindji, Warrumungu,
Kaytetye and other peoples of the country to which they migrated. These
are the only people for whom there is a half-reasonable chance of
identifying with any certainty, as they may have been recorded on early
census forms.
Vast changes in Australian society have occurred since those times, 75
years ago. It would have been interesting to consider some of them,
particularly the more immediate ones that occurred in Central Australia
in the next few years after the events of 1928, but time does not allow
for this.
Similarly it would have been interesting to reflect on the
Reconciliation Commemoration held out at Brooks Soak on the 23rd and
24th September last year. It was a moving time for many, including
members of the Murray family who laid a wreath Ð on behalf of
everyone, I like to think. In the end, though, those who have it in
their hearts to be reconciled will be, and there will be those who
won't be reconciled, or perhaps feel no need whatsoever to be
reconciled.
So, was it a massacre? Or was George Murray a hero?
The Macquarie Dictionary definition of "massacre" is: "1. the
unnecessary, indiscriminate killing of a number of human beings, as in
barbarous warfare or persecution or for revenge or plunder. 2. a
general slaughter of human beings." Broader definitions are given in
some other dictionaries, referring to general "slaughter" and
"carnage". Although the evidence suggests that, generally, women and
young children were allowed to survive, I believe that, whether 31,
60-110, 200-300, or 600-700 is the number accepted as having been shot,
the witnesses' own evidence alone leaves no choice other than to accept
that a massacre, or series of massacres, took place. When oral
histories and circumstantial evidence are taken into account, the proof
is strengthened.
According to the majority of people in Central Australia, and quite
possibly in Australia as a whole in 1928-1929, the enquiry had proved
that Mounted Constable Murray had been doing his duty when 31
Aborigines were shot. Only a small number of people, mostly
missionaries or church representatives, believed that he was a murderer
and that another enquiry was needed. To some he was elevated to hero
status.
While it is important for every individual reader of these articles to
make his or her own mind up, it is clear that there will be two
responses 75 years after the actions.
Those who believe that the Board of Enquiry, though perhaps flawed in
its membership, and perhaps incorrect in its summaries of drought
impact and missionary influence, otherwise essentially "got it right",
will at the very least believe that Constable George Murray was doing
his duty. In taking into account the difficulties and dangers he faced,
some will believe that he was a genuine hero.
Those who believe, as I do, that he deliberately covered up evidence;
at times lied under oath; at times shot people down "like dogs", "like
bullocks", "in cold blood" and "wholesale" (as the judge in Darwin
perceived the actions); and along with the other patrol members killed
far more than the 31 admitted to, will judge him differently.
They will almost certainly consider him a policeman who lost his
judgement, and became a murderer as he led "punitive", "vengeance" or
"revenge" patrols that massacred many people. (The degree to which his
superiors and the general body of frontier people were complicit is
another interesting question).
However, perhaps it is possible to consider him both a hero and a
murderer. To consider him this way is, I believe, to contribute to the
sense of reconciliation that prevailed out at Brooks Soak on the 23rd
and 24th of September last year.
It is not meant as an attempt to ignore old Fred Brooks' murder, or the
sense of loss felt by the survivors among the Warlpiri, Anmatyerre and
Kaytetye, nor to dodge the issues, but to take into account a greater
part of his life. Every single person who helped to kill old Fred
Brooks, and every single member of the three patrols, could be
similarly considered.
I think of myself as a friend or friendly acquaintance of Bullfrog's
grandchildren, Alex Wilson's sons, Police Paddy's grandson, Billy
Briscoe's descendants, Harry Tilmouth's descendants, Jack Saxby's wider
family's descendants, and John Cawood's grandson. They are not to blame
for anything at all, and it is understandable if they feel defensive
about their parents' or grandparents' generation. Can we of the present
day judge them? It is doubtful that we can in a fair way, yet we often
do. I will now consider Constable Murray just a little more, then pass
my judgement on him.
In late March, 1929, only one month after the Board's findings were
delivered, the famous aviator, Charles Kingsford Smith, was forced down
by bad weather near the Glenelg River in the north-west of Western
Australia. Keith Anderson, a friend of Kingsford Smith's, and a
mechanic mate, Bobby Hitchcock, shortly afterwards arrived in Alice
Springs in another aeroplane, the "Kookaburra", to search for them.
They were forced to land in the northern Tanami Dersert country, south
of Wave Hill, where both men died. Further searches by aircraft enabled
Kingsford Smith to be rescued; located the scene of the "Kookaburra"
tragedy; and enabled a ground party from Wave Hill to bury Anderson and
Hitchcock, and record details of the men's last troubles and their
deaths.
News of the tragedy resulted in public subscriptions and a demand that
the bodies be brought back to their home communities (Sydney and
Karakatta in W.A.) for formal burial. A recovery team of Miles, Nettle
and Berg arrived in Alice Springs with a Thornycroft 4 wheel-drive
truck, and on June 3rd were joined by Constable Murray with his T model
Ford, and Stan Cawood, son of the Administrator. They travelled north
to Newcastle Waters, then up the Murranji Stock-Route, and finally
followed the previous party's horse-tracks in to the "Kookaburra."
This was not easy going, and it still isn't today, and in all it took
10 days. Digging up the bodies and placing them in coffins was not a
pleasant task, either. However, all members of the party worked well,
and the mission was accomplished.
Constable Murray deserved every commendation for his excellent work, as
did all other members of the group. It appears, though, that this hard
and selfless work was then almost certainly undone by another act of
mass murder.
Nugget Morton had withdrawn from the Lander River country, and was on
Amaroo station by the early 1930s. As one might expect, he and George
Murray remained in touch. In his 1992 "A Son Of The Red Centre", Kurt
Johannsen writes:
"[Murray] was alleged to have been an Ôaboriginal hater' É
ÔNugget' Morton É and Murray were also allegedly involved
in the ÔSandover Masacre' where 100 or more aborigines were
either shot or poisoned after it was alleged the aborigines had speared
some cattle. Apparently strychnine [normally used to poison dingoes]
was put in the soakage of the Sandover River."
This, of course, is only an allegation, and there is no intention of
investigating it here, but given both Nugget Morton's and George
Murray's records, it does not "look good."
We all have saints and sinners among our ancestors, so how might we
judge Constable Murray if, by some miracle of longevity, he were alive
today? A Warlpiri man recently described him to me as "cheeky", a word
which, in the context, can be translated as "deadly dangerous."
However, in my experience the Warlpiri and Anmatyerre never judge him
as other than the leader of the police patrols in the Coniston country.
Indeed, the middle-aged man who discussed the police patrols with me
did not name anyone but Murray.
Thus, as with all legendary tales world-wide, Constable Murray has
already at times come to represent all who were involved. This is
understandable, for how many of us can now name more than Napoleon,
Nelson and Wellington of the millions involved in the Napoleonic Wars
or, closer to home, more than Stuart of his exploration parties of
1860-1862, or all of present Prime Minister John Howard's cabinet? As
historian Peter Ryan commented in "The Age" on October 23 last year,
"History, with time, wears thinner and thinner."
I consider that, in the broader context, if Constable Murray were still
alive today he would be acknowledged as of pioneering farm family
stock, yet lauded first and foremost as a trained Light Horseman, an
original Anzac, and a Western Front legend.
However much I believe that this series of articles has proved
otherwise, he was not found guilty of crimes during the Coniston
massacre, and despite allegations about the Sandover River massacre
still persisting, they remain unproven allegations.
I therefore think the positives might outbalance the negatives. Thus
his World War I service and his exemplary work during the recovery of
Anderson's and Hitchcock's bodies would, I suggest, prevail in the
media news next Anzac Day.
He would, I believe, be substantially rehabilitated from the role of
murderer in the minds of most, and any other flaws on his Army and
Police service records would be considered dealt with fairly during his
decades of service. There is no real doubt in my mind that he would be
hailed as one of the last great legendary heroes of Australia.
I believe that I would keep in mind his Coniston massacre role, and his
possible acts in the Sandover massacre, yet I think I would consider
him a legend too. Like Ned Kelly without the romantic image, he would
be a very flawed legend to me.
It is worth thinking about this. It rarely happens, but a hero can
become a murderer, and a murderer can become a hero.
And in Constable Murray's case there is every chance he became a
murderer again.
Shakespeare would have written a wonderful play about George Murray,
giving him an evil heart, a tortured soul and the gift of golden
language. And I'm not being sentimental or meaning to offend when I
also say that, on the 24th September out at Brooks' Soak, when Mounted
Constable Murray's relatives placed a wreath of flowers in remembrance
of all of the Warlpiri, Anmatyerre and Kaytetye Aborigines who died, in
a way they were also placing it there for George Murray too. And for
all of his patrol members. Some of you, perhaps many of you, will
disagree.
JUST REWARD FOR QUEEN'S IMAGE. Report by PAUL FITZSIMONS.
The gallopers at Pioneer Park showed a glimpse of what is to come in
Centralian racing when four events unfolded on Saturday.The first, the
Class Four Red Kangaroo Handicap over 1000 metres, allowed Compass Boy
to register two wins in a row.
He and Corruptible jumped to the lead from the gates and proved to be
the speedsters of the race.
As they shared the lead the other three runners formed a group of their
own, some three to five lengths behind.
In the straight fitness told as Compass Boy took control of the running
and careered home as a $3.40 winner by two and a half lengths.
The $3 favourite filled second place, and Jetven did well enough to
take the third place, a length and a half in arrears.
In the Red Kangaroo Class One Handicap over 1200 metres, Classic Khan
was able to atone for defeat the week before by scoring an impressive
win by a length and a half.
Unlike most Pioneer Park events in recent times, Classic Khan came from
behind to score.
Rustic Outlook led early by three to four lengths but by the turn found
the going testing. The favourite at $3, Criterium was hence set up with
every chance to claim victory having enjoyed the sit of the race.
It wasn't to be, however, as Criterium couldn't run on and the fast
finishing Tiepolo on the fence and Classic Khan in the centre of the
track settled down for the run to the line. Classic Khan claimed a
solid victory, but Tiepolo, in paying $9, was value for money for a
place punter.The South North Rail Maiden Plate was raced over 1200
metres. In this the star of the show was a race scratching from a week
ago, Foghorn Leghorn. Foghorn jumped with Litigious and the pair made
the running to the turn where Litigious showed signs of weakening under
pressure. This allowed Foghorn Leghorn ($4) to career away, winning by
over nine lengths. Litigious as $2.80 favourite claimed second place,
and the $4.60 pop Gold Hawk ran on well to fill the placings.The 1200
metre Ghan Open Handicap completed the card. In this race Queen's Image
was rewarded, having run well for a second last week behind Scotro.
In Saturday's race the pacy Ganga led early allowing Queen's Image to
drop into second place a length off the pace, with other chances Gamera
and Coppers Edge further back.
Ganga kicked to a lead of a length and a half, but had to face the
charge by Gamera and Queen's Image in the straight. In the run home
Queen's image showed her true potential in charging to the line a
winner by a length and three quarters and paying $2. Ganga held on for
second, with Gamera being the third number in the frame.
FEDS LET RSL OFF THE HOOK. Report by PAUL FITZSIMONS.
The game being played at present between Federal and RSL Works is
significant in terms of premiership ladder placings.
In Alice Springs cricket the team finishing on top at the season's end
has to be beaten in the grand final to lose the premiership. The
present game could well determine the minor premier, and after one
day's play Federal, who are in top spot, must be ruing the fact that
they may have let RSL off the hook.
RSL won the toss at Traeger, and skipper Jeff Whitmore naturally
elected to bat. They got away to a solid start with the openers putting
together 46 before Tom Scollay was caught off the bowling of Michael
Smith for 17.
Scott Robertson joined the stoic Graham Smith but could only register
three runs before B J O'Dwyer caught him off Allan Rowe. Smith himself
was the next to succumb, when, on 37, Jarrad Wapper did enough with the
ball to have him caught.
At 3/64 RSL were not looking good, but worse was to come as they
tumbled to 7/109.
Troy Camilleri and Jamie Smith supplied some resistance to the Federal
attack by putting on 19 and 29 respectively. Smith in fact stuck around
to only be the eighth wicket victim.
But Feds certainly held the upper hand.
Jason Swain struck, claiming skipper Whitmore for a duck, and Rowe
picked up Matt Sulzberger for two. This really left Feds perched in a
position to dictate the game.
However, with three wickets to fall, they allowed RSL to bite back from
despair.
The loss of Smith as the eighth wicket had allowed them to push the
score to 129. Five runs later Matt Forster fell for 15, but then the
mouse really got away from the tomcat.
In the last partnership Wayne Eglington and Nathan Flanagan were able
to produce a further 44 runs to give their side a show when Federal bat
next week.Jason Swain's 4/31 off 13 overs was impressive, while Rowe
and Smith were effective with two wickets each.
But significantly Federal managed to bowl 82 overs for the day which
places them in the advantageous position of RSL having to bowl at least
that many overs this week.
The Albrecht Oval game took on a very different perspective. Rovers
batted first and were dismissed for a meagre 140. Darryl Lowe was the
best performer for the Blues with 40 in an innings that was otherwise
disappointing. With the ball Jeremy Bigg put in a real captain's effort
taking 4/26.
West then took full advantage of the situation and by stumps had 165 on
the board without loss. The star of the innings was Adam Stockwell who
remained at the crease with 123 n.o. by his name.
It was an innings to be remembered, and from here this young man should
seek to step up to the next level and develop his full potential.
RULES TO GET A NEW LOOK. Report by PAUL FITZSIMONS.
The Central Australian Football League have announced innovative
changes to their programme for the coming season.
Twilight games, matches at Albrecht Oval and family days have been
scheduled as have visiting sides to provide Wizard Cup and
representative football experiences at Traeger Park.
More significant in terms of the CAFL is the fact that it seems five
clubs will again vie for premiership honours. West, South and Pioneer
are well positioned to play influential roles in the battle for the
flag. Rovers have again had a surge in interest, with stalwart Brett
Wagner taking the reigns as coach and attracting a solid cohort of
players to the training track.The side that seemed to be in jeopardy
over the off-season was Federal. Before Christmas they tried to hold an
AGM without being able to raise a quorum. This was repeated twice in
the New Year.
On Sunday a core of keen supporters gathered in the third attempt.
Although the number needed to conduct business was not reached, it was
decided to press ahead and try to keep the Red and White colours alive
in 2004.
An interesting ploy is now likely to be tried in calling the AGM at a
time when numbers are present at the sports club, primarily for social
reasons. It is not uncommon for Territory sporting organisations to
have to resort to such strategies to attract the numbers to satisfy
constitutional demands.Last year's president, Robbie Rolfe, will again
be there along with the seasoned team of Dave Gloede and Peter Thomson.
Gilbert McAdam has expressed interest in coaching. From such a base
Federal will be looking to attract players and administrators.
Looking at their performances through the grades during 2003, Federal
can take some heart in that the Reserve Grade and Colts performed
creditably. It is in the A Grade that work needs to be done to have a
competitive team run on each week.
The Easter Carnival will usher in the season, with well over 20 clubs
participating.The CAFL season will then begin on Saturday April 17 with
a replay of the 2003 grand final, between South and Pioneer.
TOP OZ GIGS FOR ARALUEN.
Circus from Circus Oz, La Boheme from Opera Australia, and The
Nutcracker from the Australian Ballet headline this year's theatre
season at Araluen, launched yesterday.
Alice audiences will also get to see Bell Shakespeare's Midsummer
Night's Dream, Legs On The Wall's Runners Up, and a dazzling lineup of
other shows, ranging from cabaret to comedy, daring to dance, wind
quintets to guitar quartets.
This year, Araluen's 20th Birthday year, the season has been expanded
to 16 productions, including some of Australia's flagship performing
arts companies.This continues the Northern Territory Government's
commitment to bring quality performing arts experiences to the
Territory, says Suzette Watkins, Director of the Alice Springs Cultural
Precinct.
While theatre is "an expression of our humanity Ð our desires, our
fears, our aspirations", it is also "about fun", she says."And this
year we have several productions that are just plain fun!"
Kicking off the season on March 6 is the "sophisticated and
sassy"cabaret Dislabelled by Australian Theatre of the Deaf. Combo
Fiasco, "one of the hottest cabaret acts in the world today", follows
on March 10.
Waak Waak Jungi with special guests Pitjantjatjara Choir is a musical
performance, exploring voices of Aboriginal Australia, from strictly
traditional to cutting-edge contemporary, on March 12.
The "wild and unfettered," Circus Oz will be here from April 10 to 12 ,
followed in quick succession by Runners Up from Legs on the Wall
"renowned for startling, sensuous and emotion-charged theatrics" (May
5-7), and the Melbourne Comedy Festival Roadshow (May 8-9).
And that's not all É watch this space.
I'm leaving town. COLUMN by ANN CLOKE.
The last time I wrote a column about semi-retirement and the pros and
cons of staying in the Alice ("Fortress Alice Ð Do you think you'll
retire here?", February 2002) I was almost hung, drawn and quartered,
on paper anyway.
Someone wrote, "If you're not part of the solution you're part of the
problem", referring to my tirades about on-going social issues and
concerns in the Centre, and the fact that none of the authorities seem
to have any idea about how to manage them.
Maybe people get to a point where they can't actually remember what the
initial poser was: what they were trying to resolve É
I cited the benefits of staying as a Territorian Senior, weighed up
against other options, although I'm well aware that many people,
trapped by a variety of circumstances, don't have the luxury of
options. I believed then that David and I would definitely semi-retire
in the Alice É
Now, here we are, two years later, preparing to relocate into the thick
of it all Ð not 1770 (Agnes Waters) or Byron Bay, but dense enough
for desert dwellers. The reaching of this decision has been, and still
is, for me, a highly emotive one.
Alice Springs has been my home in Australia for over 25 years. David
and I met here in 1983 Ð he arrived straight from Zimbabwe, middle
of southern Africa to the middle of Australia, and has only ever lived
in the Alice. He's intimated for a while that the Centre could be too
restrictive for what he thinks semi-retirement should encompass and
he'd really like to experience living elsewhere.
I don't know that I particularly wish to explore the idea of aging
(gracefully?) anywhere. Birthdays come and go: suffice to say that
David is a "tad" (as departed friend, roving cameleer, Dennis, would
say) older than me. Despite having dear friends here, the ease of
lifestyle and pace, the spectacular landscape and all the pluses that a
town like Alice has to offer, David is enthusiastic about a shift out
of our comfort zone, the prospect of heading east and taking on new
challenges.I was talking to Bev at Dymock's last week and she said
something along the lines of, "When we're green we grow, when we're
ripe, we rot", which is quite a good analogy of life and attitudes.
I have never felt the need to be like the other 95 per cent of
Australians who live within 100 kilometres of the coastline, but if I
do have to become part of that statistic, then I think a sea view, no
matter how distant, could help my emotional dilemma.
I know that LAA (Life after Alice) exists because friends who have
shifted over the years tell us so in emails and postcards from other
beautiful parts of Oz.
I'm fickle Ð I have to admit that I'm getting quite excited about
this, the next phase of life, but thoughts of selling the house,
packing, the physical extrication from this beautiful part of the world
and the good-byes, depress me totally. I wish I could also take our
friends, but then they wouldn't be able to visit us in a new part of Oz
and if it isn't what I think it should be, it'll be okay, because in my
heart of hearts, I know we can always come back.
I also know that wherever we go, we will promote the wonders and beauty
of Alice to everyone we meet. Where else, on a balmy Saturday evening
with a sprinkle of rain and the promise of another dramatically cloudy
sunset, could I sit on a sideline and watch quality rugby union, guys
versus girls, with gigantic river gums, sandy banks and the historic
Todd Tavern as the backdrop? Mentions should go to referee Warren
(Snowdon) who courageously enforced the "no swearing and no heavy
tackling" rule and was so fair, that the full-time score showed a draw;
Steve (Smith), fearless captain of the boys' team; John (Elferink) who
magnanimously attributed many of the pinks' ball handling errors to
inferior choices of make-up; Annie P offering encouragement from the
bench and on the pitch; Rosemary, who managed to score a try without
dropping her bright pink handbag; the brave boy pinks, "Am I Not Pretty
Enough", "Is My Heart Too Broken" and "Do I Cry Too Much"; my niece
Emma (I'm extremely biased!!), number 69, a formidable player with or
without ball possession; the rest of the players; water and champagne
boys, linesmen, supporters and spectators.
So, away with the tissues (there'll be time enough for tears later), or
should I say (perhaps), stop celebrating, because we're not heading out
until mid-year, and there are columns to be penned, issues tackled and
lives to be lived to the absolute maximum in the Alice.
Give us a break. COLUMN by STEVE FISHER.
When I first arrived in Alice Springs, people told me how important it
is to leave town from time-to-time.
This seemed like peculiar advice to offer a newcomer. It made me
nervous.
I thought there might be something lurking, unknown to us that made the
place unliveable, like an all-pervading smell or an annual bout of
heavy diarrhoea that struck down the locals.
This cheerful advice implied that eventually my family would be driven
away from town for the kind of respite that carers of people with
illnesses need. But what was sick about the Alice, I couldn't work out.
Get out of town. The words still reverberate. Not everyone has the time
off work, the money or the inclination to take an occasional trip away.
But there's still a huge exodus of people who head south over
Christmas. That's what I did too, except that I had no rellies to
visit, which may seem a bit sad but was no bad thing. Instead I
deepened my relationships with inanimate objects like gym machines and
video shops, always easier to manage than those with animate members of
your own extended family.
At the same time, I sampled the delights of Adelaide. Having endured a
hard sell from a succession of Alice folk about what a wonderful place
it is, I plunged in with both feet.
I was dragged by my children around gleaming and chilly malls. I
watched people test their four-wheel drive vehicles on pristine
beaches. I nodded earnestly as coastal dwellers complained about the
heat once it reached thirty-two degrees. I endured the daily worship of
Steve Waugh in the local media. And I went to watch Adelaide United in
the first soccer stadium that I have visited where soychino is served
and the fans swear in European languages other than English.
The better bits of the city were modest but new experiences. I promise
I won't go on about this for long, but Adelaide must have the best
public transport system that I have seen for ages. And I study them
intimately.
In a matter of days, I was confidently alighting from one bus, striding
to the neighbouring stop and boarding one to another destination. I
just knew it would be waiting there because the pack of leaflets the
nice lady had given me at the bus information office said so.
She gave me a little wallet to hold my day ranger ticket and I clasped
it close to my bosom the whole time I was in Adelaide, only getting it
out to present to the bus drivers, who didn't want to see it anyway
because there was always a ticket-punching machine further down the
aisle. But I liked showing it to them anyway.
If this hedonistic trip had any higher purpose, it was to work out why
so many Centralian residents treat Adelaide like some kind of promised
land. Yes, it's a pleasant and leafy city with the best of coast,
countryside and hills. The shops and cinemas have all you could ever
want and more. But it is a long, long drive to get there. And that's
just through the suburbs.
So the truth must be just as those people told me when I first arrived
in the Alice. Adelaide is not a magnet for people like us.
More likely, it is a convenient place to go when you just have to get
out of town for a while. Assuming you have the time and money to go
there in the first place, it offers choice, respite and anonymity in
just the right amounts.
steve@afishoutofwater.com
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